A journal of our travels and experiences.
Saturday, October 1, 2011
Antarctica
It is always fun to post the new map at the top of a blog to signify that it is time to start preparing for our next adventure. The next trip is a 24 day voyage to Antarctica, South Georgia Island, and the Falklands. It is time for us to start shopping for warm clothes and water proof knee high boots. Being southerners, we have little experience with cold weather and a very sparse winter wardrobe.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
More Machu Picchu and Others
I posted a blog yesterday updating our trip from Aguascalientes to Cusco but it got lost in the ether somewhere between the iPad and the Internet. Oh well, I guess I shouldn't cry over lost blogs.
Here are a few more pictures of Machu Picchu and, as a bonus, I will add pictures of Paula.
The train ride from Aguascalientes to Ollytambo was fun. The car attendants, a young Andean woman and man gave us a fashion show. They did a good job of modeling the local sweaters, scarfs, jackets, etc... on the rocking train car. From Ollytambo we took a different route to Cusco. We left the Urabamba River valley and took the high road home. We were above 12,000' with peaks over 19,000' hovering above us.
We pulled to the side of the winding road to take in the view and were greeted by Quechua women selling beautiful textiles.
Cusco is a unique and fascinating city of narrow lanes opening into unexpected squares with a constant blend of pre and post Columbian architecture - one built on top of the other. Our hotel, Hotel Monasterio, was originally built in 1590 as a monastery and rebuilt in1692 after an earthquake. A fascinating, baroque place to stay. I'm sorting through pictures of Cusco and will post more about this city soon.
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Here are a few more pictures of Machu Picchu and, as a bonus, I will add pictures of Paula.
The train ride from Aguascalientes to Ollytambo was fun. The car attendants, a young Andean woman and man gave us a fashion show. They did a good job of modeling the local sweaters, scarfs, jackets, etc... on the rocking train car. From Ollytambo we took a different route to Cusco. We left the Urabamba River valley and took the high road home. We were above 12,000' with peaks over 19,000' hovering above us.
We pulled to the side of the winding road to take in the view and were greeted by Quechua women selling beautiful textiles.
Cusco is a unique and fascinating city of narrow lanes opening into unexpected squares with a constant blend of pre and post Columbian architecture - one built on top of the other. Our hotel, Hotel Monasterio, was originally built in 1590 as a monastery and rebuilt in1692 after an earthquake. A fascinating, baroque place to stay. I'm sorting through pictures of Cusco and will post more about this city soon.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Lima, Peru
Friday, September 16, 2011
Machu Picchu, Images
I think a series of images will suffice for Machu Picchu much better than anything I can write.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Hotel Monasterio, Cusco
Thursday, September 15, 2011
On the Urabamba
We caught a Peru Rail train at Ollytambo and set off following the Urabamba River north. It is the end of the dry season so the river is at its lowest. Even with the reduced flow, the river tumbled and rushed along the train tracks.
Last year, during the wet season, the railway washed out in several places stranding people at Machu Picchu.
You can see the tracks down among the boulders from the washout. The train is the only way to Aguascalientes and Machu Picchu. The route passes between 19,000' glacier capped peaks.
The rail trip takes just under two hours and travels through fantastic scenery. The canyon is very narrow and tall, 1,500' cliffs overhang the tracks in many places, the vegetation changes rapidly as we traveled from the arid highlands into the lush vegetation of the cloud forest. The cliffs and trees are festooned with bromeliads, orchids, and ferns. Portions of the Inca Trail can be seen snaking along cliffs and over passes.
Arrival in Aguascalientes is a hoot. The canyon is very narrow and the village is squeezed between towering cliffs and the river with the narrow gauge tracks slicing through the middle. We stopped in the middle of the village and de-trained into chaos.
A bus is the only way to the top of the canyon wall and Machu Picchu. What a ride! It is 1,600 vertical feet from the river to Machu Picchu. The bus route is a narrow, rutted, one lane road cut into the cliff with more switchbacks than I could count. When meeting another bus traveling the opposite direction, one bus would back up until the outer tire on the rear dual tires were hanging over space. I'm not sure how we made it.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Last year, during the wet season, the railway washed out in several places stranding people at Machu Picchu.
You can see the tracks down among the boulders from the washout. The train is the only way to Aguascalientes and Machu Picchu. The route passes between 19,000' glacier capped peaks.
The rail trip takes just under two hours and travels through fantastic scenery. The canyon is very narrow and tall, 1,500' cliffs overhang the tracks in many places, the vegetation changes rapidly as we traveled from the arid highlands into the lush vegetation of the cloud forest. The cliffs and trees are festooned with bromeliads, orchids, and ferns. Portions of the Inca Trail can be seen snaking along cliffs and over passes.
Arrival in Aguascalientes is a hoot. The canyon is very narrow and the village is squeezed between towering cliffs and the river with the narrow gauge tracks slicing through the middle. We stopped in the middle of the village and de-trained into chaos.
A bus is the only way to the top of the canyon wall and Machu Picchu. What a ride! It is 1,600 vertical feet from the river to Machu Picchu. The bus route is a narrow, rutted, one lane road cut into the cliff with more switchbacks than I could count. When meeting another bus traveling the opposite direction, one bus would back up until the outer tire on the rear dual tires were hanging over space. I'm not sure how we made it.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Urabamba River, Peru
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Andean Trail
Cusco is a bustling, colorful city of 400,000 with narrow cobble stone streets
and beautiful stonework. The elevation at the airport is 11,200' and it seems everything is uphill from the airport. The first floor of some of the buildings, up to about 12 to 15' is the pre-Columbian Inca fitted stonework on the Incan palaces. The Spanish introduced the concept of second stories and the beautifully carved Moorish balconies which they added to the Inca palaces. All the the doors are painted blue.
We enjoyed a Peruvian meal of squash soup followed by a dish I can best describe as a spicy chicken ravioli. For desert we had a bowl of fruit. Of course, we washed everything down with hot cups of coca tea. We won't pass any drug tests for awhile.
We left Cusco and traveled to the Urabamba river valley that is known as the Sacred Valley of the Inca.
It is spring time and, as you can see, some crops have come up while others are just being planted. The primary method of plowing is oxen. We traveled along the river to the village of Pisca. Just before the market we stopped to see llama, vicuna, alpaca, and guanaco and were able to see women making yarn and weaving.
Then it was off to the market in Pisca. The river cobble streets and plaza were hard on the feet.
You can see in this picture that the stones are turned on edge rather than laid flat. The plaza or square was built before the Spanish and the introduction of horses. We quickly tired of shopping and found a friendly balcony over looking all the activity and enjoyed a cold Cusquena cerveza. They tell us that it is important to stay hydrated at high altitude.
Our hotel here in the Sacred Valley is very nice. It is surrounded by high Andes peaks
and instead of rooms it has a number of individual casitas scattered about among a lush garden. There are hummingbirds with 7" wingspans zipping about.
We had an interesting dinner. Traditional Peruvian food again and too much of everything. I selected alpaca for my main course. One of our fellow travelers from Singapore was more adventurous and opted for the roasted guinea pig. We were all tired more from the altitude than the travel and the evening broke up after desert. The temperature had dropped quickly once the sun set and we were happily surprised to find multiple thick woolen blankets over the bed and hot water bottles in the bed. I could get hooked on the hot water bottles.
We slept in this morning which felt wonderful. We awoke to a crisp, bright morning and had a leisurely breakfast before continuing up the valley to Ollantaitambo Fortress. I had read only briefly about this fortress and knew that it was the site of a decisive victory during an Incan civil war. I never imagined that it was so impressive and magnificent. The structure is massive and the stone work very fine. All the aqueducts are still in use. I have combed through our pictures several times and can not find any that capture the feel for this fascinating site. First, though, the drive to the fortress was interesting. The valley is narrow with all the mountain walls terraced. The fields, most less than one acre, were all being plowed by ox pulled wooden plows and everywhere on the mountains are the signs, either terraces, aqueducts, or granaries built by the Inca or their predecessors. Must are still in use.
We arrived at the village and walked through the narrow streets to the fortress
We climbed the steep steps and the view got better as we went.
We continued to the top and followed the old Incan trail around the mountain by more terraces and graneries.
Here's Paula at the top of the world.
and beautiful stonework. The elevation at the airport is 11,200' and it seems everything is uphill from the airport. The first floor of some of the buildings, up to about 12 to 15' is the pre-Columbian Inca fitted stonework on the Incan palaces. The Spanish introduced the concept of second stories and the beautifully carved Moorish balconies which they added to the Inca palaces. All the the doors are painted blue.
We enjoyed a Peruvian meal of squash soup followed by a dish I can best describe as a spicy chicken ravioli. For desert we had a bowl of fruit. Of course, we washed everything down with hot cups of coca tea. We won't pass any drug tests for awhile.
We left Cusco and traveled to the Urabamba river valley that is known as the Sacred Valley of the Inca.
It is spring time and, as you can see, some crops have come up while others are just being planted. The primary method of plowing is oxen. We traveled along the river to the village of Pisca. Just before the market we stopped to see llama, vicuna, alpaca, and guanaco and were able to see women making yarn and weaving.
Then it was off to the market in Pisca. The river cobble streets and plaza were hard on the feet.
You can see in this picture that the stones are turned on edge rather than laid flat. The plaza or square was built before the Spanish and the introduction of horses. We quickly tired of shopping and found a friendly balcony over looking all the activity and enjoyed a cold Cusquena cerveza. They tell us that it is important to stay hydrated at high altitude.
Our hotel here in the Sacred Valley is very nice. It is surrounded by high Andes peaks
and instead of rooms it has a number of individual casitas scattered about among a lush garden. There are hummingbirds with 7" wingspans zipping about.
We had an interesting dinner. Traditional Peruvian food again and too much of everything. I selected alpaca for my main course. One of our fellow travelers from Singapore was more adventurous and opted for the roasted guinea pig. We were all tired more from the altitude than the travel and the evening broke up after desert. The temperature had dropped quickly once the sun set and we were happily surprised to find multiple thick woolen blankets over the bed and hot water bottles in the bed. I could get hooked on the hot water bottles.
We slept in this morning which felt wonderful. We awoke to a crisp, bright morning and had a leisurely breakfast before continuing up the valley to Ollantaitambo Fortress. I had read only briefly about this fortress and knew that it was the site of a decisive victory during an Incan civil war. I never imagined that it was so impressive and magnificent. The structure is massive and the stone work very fine. All the aqueducts are still in use. I have combed through our pictures several times and can not find any that capture the feel for this fascinating site. First, though, the drive to the fortress was interesting. The valley is narrow with all the mountain walls terraced. The fields, most less than one acre, were all being plowed by ox pulled wooden plows and everywhere on the mountains are the signs, either terraces, aqueducts, or granaries built by the Inca or their predecessors. Must are still in use.
We arrived at the village and walked through the narrow streets to the fortress
We climbed the steep steps and the view got better as we went.
We continued to the top and followed the old Incan trail around the mountain by more terraces and graneries.
Here's Paula at the top of the world.
Location:Cusco, Peru
Monday, September 12, 2011
Travel or, Back to Civilisation
Yesterday was tiring. We sailed overnight from Genovesa to Baltra. Luckily, the seas had calmed somewhat and instead of being tossed about like Orville Redenbacher in a microwave, we were rocked to sleep. We were up early and took the zodiacs to Baltra. The only thing on Baltra is the single runway, an open air terminal and fuel tanks. We flew Baltra to Guayaquil, then on to Quito. We changed to the international terminal and arrived in Lima late. We had a short walk to a hotel and settled for room service and a bath.
Our plane from Lima to Cusco is interesting. It's a high wing aircraft with a fat body, reminiscent of a pregnant guppy. The odd appearance is enhanced by the stubby, wide wings that each sport a pair of large jet engines. The four engines dominate the look and, I can only assume, the plane has some special purpose such as short take off and landing capabilities for the mountains. The plane carries more passengers, 76, than it appears possible from the outside.
An observation; working for an airline, either as a counter person or flight attendant must be a better job in South America than in the US. We have yet to encounter incompetence, surliness, or laziness. They appear to take pride in providing service. Even the airport security people seem to be more "with it".
Reviewing the blogs from the Galapagos, I realize that I left much out due to the sporadic, slow Internet connection. I might send out a few catch-up or look-back blogs about our eight days on the Islander. The Galapagos Islands are amazing and mysterious. I can understand how many of the early explorers, including Darwin, described the islands as hell on earth or wretched volcanic rocks inhabited' by freaks and monsters. It is truly a unique and special place.
On to Peru and the Andes
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Our plane from Lima to Cusco is interesting. It's a high wing aircraft with a fat body, reminiscent of a pregnant guppy. The odd appearance is enhanced by the stubby, wide wings that each sport a pair of large jet engines. The four engines dominate the look and, I can only assume, the plane has some special purpose such as short take off and landing capabilities for the mountains. The plane carries more passengers, 76, than it appears possible from the outside.
An observation; working for an airline, either as a counter person or flight attendant must be a better job in South America than in the US. We have yet to encounter incompetence, surliness, or laziness. They appear to take pride in providing service. Even the airport security people seem to be more "with it".
Reviewing the blogs from the Galapagos, I realize that I left much out due to the sporadic, slow Internet connection. I might send out a few catch-up or look-back blogs about our eight days on the Islander. The Galapagos Islands are amazing and mysterious. I can understand how many of the early explorers, including Darwin, described the islands as hell on earth or wretched volcanic rocks inhabited' by freaks and monsters. It is truly a unique and special place.
On to Peru and the Andes
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Enroute, Lima to Cusco, Peru
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Genovesa
Sailing into Genovesa is a wonderful sight. All that remains of the volcano is about 75% of the rim. As you sail through the gap you enter the caldera known as Darwin Bay and are surrounded by cliffs. there is a small beach where a wet landing can be made. Genovesa is know for red footed boobies,
Galapagos owl, and frigates. The red footed boobie is the only tree nesting boobie. The blue footed and nazca boobies don't build nests but lay their eggs directly on the ground. Again, all the animals are so tame that you can walk right up to them and need to watch your step to avoid injuring the animals.
In this one red mangrove tree you can see multiple baby birds, both red footed boobies
and frigate chicks
Herons were also plentiful
The naturalist estimate a bird population on this tiny rock of 1.5 million birds. There are only seven species represented.
There was only one bird we hadn't seen, the Galapagos owl. We boarded the zodiacs and scaled the side of the rim. The owls are brownish red and blend perfectly with the weathered lava of Genovesa.
The stand in the lava and wait for petrel's to wander within striking distance.
As you can see, he wasn't a bit concerned about our presence.
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Galapagos owl, and frigates. The red footed boobie is the only tree nesting boobie. The blue footed and nazca boobies don't build nests but lay their eggs directly on the ground. Again, all the animals are so tame that you can walk right up to them and need to watch your step to avoid injuring the animals.
In this one red mangrove tree you can see multiple baby birds, both red footed boobies
and frigate chicks
Herons were also plentiful
The naturalist estimate a bird population on this tiny rock of 1.5 million birds. There are only seven species represented.
There was only one bird we hadn't seen, the Galapagos owl. We boarded the zodiacs and scaled the side of the rim. The owls are brownish red and blend perfectly with the weathered lava of Genovesa.
The stand in the lava and wait for petrel's to wander within striking distance.
As you can see, he wasn't a bit concerned about our presence.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Quito, Ecuador
Rock and Roll
Sailing from Santiago to Genovesa was an experience. We had a fun celebration just at sunset when we crossed the equator and motored into the northern hemisphere.
After drinks and the usual foolishness associated with crossing the equator we decided on an early night. At 12:07 am we were jarred awake by the rocking and rolling of the ship. It was difficult to stay in bed. The ship was rolling so severely the curtains were slamming from one end of the windows to the other. Dresser drawers were slamming open and shut. As the Islander plowed into a wave it set up a shudder or tremor that traveled from bow to stern. One swell threw everything, including a pitcher full of water, from our desk and table to the cabin floor. Thank goodness the lid was down on the toilet as everything in the bathroom was being tossed about. At times we were pitched fore and aft but the most severe movement was side to side. There were short lolls when we were able to get back centered in the bed and drift off to sleep in the heavy rolls only to be shocked awake by another session of violent pitching. The tempest continued until the captain was able to maneuver us through a narrow channel into a collapsed caldera known as Darwin Bay in Genovesa Island at 6:00 am.
Everything in the galley and lounge had been thrown about and over turned.
We are just now (10:00 pm) leaving the protection of the caldera for the open seas enroute to Baltra. The captain has advised us the seas are still heavy, possibly worse than yesterday. The ship is already rolling too much to stand or walk and the the seas are building rapidly, we can hear unsecured doors banging and objects rolling about. The ship is getting slammed and we still have a long night ahead of us. The plan is to sail through the night and find refuge on the leeward side of Baltra in the morning.
Genovesa was fascinating as are all the islands but each is unique. Vegetation and animal life vary greatly. The one constant is the volcanic origin and the hostile, severe environment.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
After drinks and the usual foolishness associated with crossing the equator we decided on an early night. At 12:07 am we were jarred awake by the rocking and rolling of the ship. It was difficult to stay in bed. The ship was rolling so severely the curtains were slamming from one end of the windows to the other. Dresser drawers were slamming open and shut. As the Islander plowed into a wave it set up a shudder or tremor that traveled from bow to stern. One swell threw everything, including a pitcher full of water, from our desk and table to the cabin floor. Thank goodness the lid was down on the toilet as everything in the bathroom was being tossed about. At times we were pitched fore and aft but the most severe movement was side to side. There were short lolls when we were able to get back centered in the bed and drift off to sleep in the heavy rolls only to be shocked awake by another session of violent pitching. The tempest continued until the captain was able to maneuver us through a narrow channel into a collapsed caldera known as Darwin Bay in Genovesa Island at 6:00 am.
Everything in the galley and lounge had been thrown about and over turned.
We are just now (10:00 pm) leaving the protection of the caldera for the open seas enroute to Baltra. The captain has advised us the seas are still heavy, possibly worse than yesterday. The ship is already rolling too much to stand or walk and the the seas are building rapidly, we can hear unsecured doors banging and objects rolling about. The ship is getting slammed and we still have a long night ahead of us. The plan is to sail through the night and find refuge on the leeward side of Baltra in the morning.
Genovesa was fascinating as are all the islands but each is unique. Vegetation and animal life vary greatly. The one constant is the volcanic origin and the hostile, severe environment.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Genovesa, Galapagos
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Sullivan Bay or, The Moon
After lunch we donned heavier hiking shoes and made a dry landing on a lava field on Santiago. The lava is primarily pahoehoe or ropy lava.
The lava created fascinating designs and covered hundreds of acres. We hiked across miles of the 100 year old flow trying to avoid the sharper, more shattered aa lava. These little hornitos reminded me of the mud volcanoes in Yellowstone.
The red in the background is an older, more weathered flow.
Even after 100 years, there is very little life. A few lava lizards close to the edge and a couple cacti farther inland.
Beautiful in its severity.
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The lava created fascinating designs and covered hundreds of acres. We hiked across miles of the 100 year old flow trying to avoid the sharper, more shattered aa lava. These little hornitos reminded me of the mud volcanoes in Yellowstone.
The red in the background is an older, more weathered flow.
Even after 100 years, there is very little life. A few lava lizards close to the edge and a couple cacti farther inland.
Beautiful in its severity.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Santiago, Galapagos
Penguins
We anchored close to Sombrero Chino in the morning and were surrounded by small islands formed from parasitic cones.
Sombrero Chino name is inspired by it's shape. Some people refer to it as "Pizza Hut".
As soon as the anchor was set we launched the zodiacs to explore for an area to snorkel. The water was more calm between all the small islands. There are multiple small coves and caves along the lava flow with a strong current.
Perfect for penguins, sea lions, sharks, and a plethora of fish. The 68 degree water temperature stung a bit but the clarity of the water along with the wildlife made it worthwhile. I was able to video sea lions and sharks. We also fortunate to see the Galapagos penguin.
We returned to the Islander for hot chocolate and lunch.
After lunch, we weighed anchor and sailed for Santiago. A magical place with little resemblance to anything on earth.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Sombrero Chino name is inspired by it's shape. Some people refer to it as "Pizza Hut".
As soon as the anchor was set we launched the zodiacs to explore for an area to snorkel. The water was more calm between all the small islands. There are multiple small coves and caves along the lava flow with a strong current.
Perfect for penguins, sea lions, sharks, and a plethora of fish. The 68 degree water temperature stung a bit but the clarity of the water along with the wildlife made it worthwhile. I was able to video sea lions and sharks. We also fortunate to see the Galapagos penguin.
We returned to the Islander for hot chocolate and lunch.
After lunch, we weighed anchor and sailed for Santiago. A magical place with little resemblance to anything on earth.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Sombrero Chino
Friday, September 9, 2011
Eagle Rays, Rats and Snakes
Yesterday, after hiking South Plaza, we snorkeled in a large, protected cove on Santa Fe Island. The cove was formed by a lava flow that produced a long, porous peninsula with several cuts or channels. There is a strong current and it blasts through the cuts carrying large amounts of nutrients which attract the fish. As we worked our way around to the sandy side of the inlet there were eagle rays by the dozens and white tipped sharks. After our snorkel, we made a wet landing on Santa Fe Island to hike to the top. It was a strenuous hike; first over large, sharp lava boulders followed by a very steep trail with loose and rolling scree.
At the start of our hike we were entertained by two Galapagos hawks.
Our first sighting of the hawks. We also saw endemic rice rats, another species of land iguanas, and one of the two endemic snakes.
It still amazes us that none of the creatures display any fear of people.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
At the start of our hike we were entertained by two Galapagos hawks.
Our first sighting of the hawks. We also saw endemic rice rats, another species of land iguanas, and one of the two endemic snakes.
It still amazes us that none of the creatures display any fear of people.
Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Sombrero Chino Island, Galapagos
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